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Linen fabric: properties, blends and uses

Linen fibre comes from the stalk of the flax plant. The fibres are long and strong. Linen yarn has natural thick and thin spots, called slubs, which give the fabric its familiar texture.

Properties

PropertyWhat it means
BreathabilityAbsorbs moisture and releases it quickly; feels cool
StrengthStrong fibre that keeps its strength when wet
CreasingLow elasticity, so it creases easily
HandCan feel stiff at first and softens with washing
ShrinkageUnwashed linen can shrink in the first wash

About creasing

Flax fibre has little stretch, so linen creases when folded. In higher-end linen products the creased look is usually accepted as part of the style. For a softer hand and a relaxed crumpled look, linen is also sold stonewashed or enzyme-washed.

Linen-cotton blends

In a blend, cotton softens the fabric and reduces creasing while linen brings texture and coolness. A 50/50 blend is common. Some fabrics use a cotton warp with a linen weft. Linen-look polyester is sometimes sold under the linen name as well, so ask for the composition in writing.

Uses

  • Tablecloths, runners and napkins
  • Higher-end bedding
  • Curtains and summer throws
  • Pillowcases and cushion covers

When ordering

Ask for composition, weight, width and whether the fabric has been washed. For bedding, get the shrinkage rate before cutting. Specifications for each series are on its series page.

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